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Massachusetts Foliage Driving Tour

The Hill Towns of Western Massachusetts

by Jan Voorhis

JUST EAST OF the traditional pleasures of the Berkshires lies an area known as "the hill towns." Though often overshadowed by its showier, better publicized neighbors, this region of New England offers the best of both city and country.

These hill towns are thick with creative arts, rural beauty, cultural diversity, and great music and restaurants fueled by the area's dense cluster of colleges and universities. This two-day fall-foliage ramble takes you from the Vermont border through breathtaking countryside for a night's stay in the Shelburne Falls area, then down to Northampton for a night in the "city."

Day One

OK, we're not yet in Massachusetts, but we couldn't resist starting this tour in the hamlet of Jacksonville, Vermont. From Brattleboro, take Route 9 west (the Molly Stark Trail) to Route 100 south. Antiquers will enjoy a stop at Marillas Antiques & Country Goods, a charming multidealer shop located in an old house overlooking a lively stream in the center of town. The shop carries a variety of small and large antiques at prices that should make it easy for you to justify taking home a treasure. Up the hill, on Gates Pond Road, is the well-regarded Stone Soldier Pottery, featuring a large variety of hand-thrown stoneware pieces and other crafts. The business is run by the Burnell family.

Heading south on Route 112, you will find the North River Winery located along the popular trout-fishing stream that runs through the foothills of Windham County. Taste and buy fruit wines, hard ciders, and Vermont-made cheeses.

Ready your cameras for the next stretch of 112 as it winds through the bucolic North River Valley toward Colrain, Massachusetts. After about five miles, the river flows for a spell between the steep granite walls of Halifax Gorge. Look for several turnouts on your right. Trails from these parking areas lead down to the gorge.

About nine miles out of Jacksonville is a farm (on the right) with the quintessential weathered gray barn and a resident gray horse to match -- a classic New England photo op.

From the village of Colrain, head up the hill on Greenfield Road, which becomes the Colrain-Shelburne Road toward Route 2. Any children in tow would appreciate a stop at Pine Hill Orchards on the left to pick your own apples (adults can taste the offerings of the nearby West County Winery). Several miles farther along the road is Orchard Hill Antiques, owned by Jeffrey Bishop, occupying an 1811 house and a barn annex full of period country furniture, lighting fixtures, clocks, and tools.

You'll come out onto Route 2. Turn left to head east on Route 2. The first building on your right is home to the Shelburne Falls Coffee Roasters, perfectly placed for an infusion of coffee, cookies, and pastry.

Stretch your legs amid some lovely scenery on the trails at High Ledges, a 586-acre Audubon sanctuary in Shelburne. Point your car west on Route 2, take a right onto Little Mohawk Road, and bear left at the junction onto Patten Road. Continuing on Patten, go left at the next junction and then bear right. The sanctuary entrance is approximately a mile on the left, a twisting, turning half-mile-long dirt road (take it slow!) that empties out onto a small, grassy parking area.

Follow signs to the cabin, where trails are posted, one of which winds up to the 1,350-foot-high ledge, affording a sweeping view of the Deerfield River valley, Mount Greylock (the highest mountain peak in the state), and the village of Shelburne Falls. The story goes that the last pair of wolves in western Massachusetts made their den somewhere among these ledges, ravines, and forest. The wolves are gone, but keep your eyes peeled for the many varieties of orchids (a number of species line the sanctuary's extensive trail system) and ferns, as well as yellow-bellied sapsuckers, as you make your way through the lush forest.

For a more adventurous way to experience West County's outdoors, raft class II and III rapids along the Deerfield River through the mossy, boulder-strewn reaches of Zoar Gap. Head west down Route 2 to Charlemont. Zoar Outdoor and Crab Apple Whitewater run rafting trips ranging in intensity from mild to wild.

Retrace your steps back to Route 2 and head west again, looking for signs for Route 2A and the charming village of Shelburne Falls, a weekend destination in itself. Shelburne's generous offerings include the natural beauty of the Deerfield River, glacial potholes, several good antiques shops, tasty food, a number of local arts and crafts galleries, and the famous Bridge of Flowers.

Located near the junction of Routes 2 and 112, the village of Shelburne Falls straddles the Deerfield River, standing partly in the town of Shelburne and partly on the other side of the river in Buckland. Find parking on Bridge Street in the center of town, and allow at least half a day to appreciate the town. Be sure to stop at the well-staffed Shelburne Falls Village Information Center for more information about the area.

Starting on the Shelburne side, you'll find several antiques shops. Shea Antiques is full of wonderful old goodies, including a collection of antique Christmas ornaments. Look also for an offbeat stores: the Wandering Moon, with a medieval influence. On weekend nights Pothole Pictures presents classic movies at the renovated Memorial Hall. And be sure to make time for a stop at the Shelburne Falls Artisans Cooperative. Here 50 artists and craftspeople feature their work.

When you're hungry, two of the tastiest options in Shelburne Falls are the Tusk N' Rattle Cafe, which serves Latin and Indian cuisine, and Mother's Restaurant, where you'll find a delicious breakfast and lunch in a relaxed atmosphere. The Southwestern-influenced menu boasts eight different kinds of chilies daily, as well as a variety of sandwiches and soups.

On the Buckland side of the village, a picnic or casual sit-down lunch can be found at McCusker's Market, the local health food store and gathering place. McCusker's also sells Lamson & Goodnow's cutlery, which has been manufactured up the street since 1837. For a much bigger selection, including a line of "seconds," visit the company's factory outlet on Conway Street. Outdoor tables at McCusker's or on Conway Street at the picnic area give you a chance to enjoy the river scenery.

Up the hill on Ashfield Street you'll find the Salmon Falls Artisans' Showroom, carrying glassware, jewelry, furniture, and other excellent handwork of more than 180 artisans. Head back down the hill toward State Street, where you'll find Bald Mountain Pottery and Apple Blossoms Antiques.

Heading back toward McCusker's, stroll across the Bridge of Flowers. Once a trolley bridge, it was reappropriated by the Shelburne Falls Woman's Club in 1929 as a pedestrian walkway and perennial garden. Gardeners will appreciate the effort taken to keep this 400-foot perennial garden in bloom throughout the season; more than 500 plant varieties line the bridge, ensuring that something is always in bloom.

After you've crossed the Bridge of Flowers and are back in Shelburne Falls, turn right onto Water Street and cross Bridge Street onto Deerfield Avenue to find these geologic marvels: the glacial potholes, holes of all sizes bored into the Salmon Falls rockbed by glaciers (it's a real challenge to photograph these curiosities adequately). The potholes vary in size from a few inches to nearly 40 feet in diameter, and in the summer the riverbed is dotted with swimmers and sunbathers enjoying the smooth, warm rock surfaces. Crafts practically line your path down to the water: North River Glass, a working glassblowing studio that's open to the curious public, and Mole Hollow Candles.

If you're ready to get back into the car, cross back over to Buckland and bang a right onto Route 2A. At the intersection of Routes 2 and 112, turn left and travel for half a mile, turning right onto 112 south. For eight miles you'll pass through stretches of lovely farmland and gentle hills before making a left on 116 south into Ashfield. Ashfield's Fall Festival occurs on Columbus Day weekend and is a delightful blend of crafts, food, games, and music.

You are no doubt tired enough to pull out the list of B&Bs you've picked up from the Shelburne Visitors Center. Here are a couple we've stayed at while in the area. At the Bull Frog Bed & Breakfast in Ashfield, Lucille Thibault welcomes you to her late-1700s Cape set on 27 acres of farmland, cornfields, and rolling hills. On Route 143 in Chesterfield, Doc and Denise LeDuc open their 1891 Dutch gambrel to guests under the name of the Seven Hearths B&B. On these chilly fall nights, visitors will be happy to learn that three of the B&B's bedrooms have working fireplaces.

Day Two

For more Arcadian tranquility, continue south on 116, going straight where 116 angles to the left. Follow the old-fashioned sign pointing to Williamsburg and Route 9. Ease down 2.3 miles to the Chapelbrook Reservation. Don't be deterred by the spectacle of serious rock climbers struggling up the face with ropes. The rest of us can follow the marked trail up and around a sheer rock face to the summit. After taking in the vista, walk back down and follow the trail across the road to moss-covered falls (being ever mindful of the slippery rocks).

Now, backtrack onto 116 through Ashfield and head south again on 112 for a pretty drive. About five miles down on the left is the DAR State Forest, established in 1929 when the Daughters of the American Revolution donated 1,020 acres to the Commonwealth. There is a nice trail along Upper Highland Lake (as well as a wheelchair-accessible trail along the lake edge that provides access to fishing) and a scenic wetland where moose, bear, and beaver are common. At the end of 112, hang a left on Route 9 through blink-and-you-miss-it Goshen and on down the hill into Williamsburg.

Visit the Williamsburg General Store, a yellow-clapboard old-fashioned (the store is 125 years old), stuffed-to-the-gills shop specializing in ice cream, kitchen gadgets, handmade jewelry, Christmas ornaments, and home-baked goods. It sits next door to the Williamsburg Grange Community Hall. It wouldn't be fall without sampling one of their famous Wrapples -- sliced fresh apples sprinkled with cinnamon and sugar, baked in pastry, and lightly frosted. Owner Carol Majercik tells us they sell more than 100 a day on weekends.

Northampton is the next stop. To get there, simply follow Route 9 east out of Williamsburg -- the road will dump you smack dab in the middle of this thriving college town. While there, pick up a copy of the Valley Advocate on the street for listings of everything from food and live entertainment to movies. Main Street has enough art and crafts galleries to keep you busy for hours. The Calvin Theatre and the Iron Horse Music Hall are venues for big-name music groups, and the Pleasant Street Theater and the Academy of Music Theatre show interesting films.

If you find yourself here on a rainy day or can't resist the cultural pull of an area that boasts more than 30,000 students within an 11-mile radius, try visiting any of the five colleges, where you'll find museums, exhibits, recitals, dance concerts, and terrific libraries.

It's hard to go wrong choosing a restaurant on Main Street. They have to be good to hold their own in this town. The problem: so many restaurants and so little time! For a special night out, try Spoleto Restaurant and the upscale Del Raye Bar & Grille. Here, gourmet food with international flavors is the name of the game. Our suggestions: braised hazelnut duck or grilled yellowfin tuna. Both places have excellent wine lists. Just off Main Street, the Eastside Grill serves creative American cuisine. They specialize in fresh fish and seafood with a fine selection of steaks. Warning: You may have to put your name on a waiting list at these establishments, but strolling around town before you're seated is an enjoyable diversion, no matter how hungry you are.

If the evening is warm enough, you'll be treated to a wide variety of street musicians as you wander after dinner. If you still have room, Bart's on Main Street and Herrell's in Thorne's basement have yummy homemade ice cream to rival the best. Most places serve excellent cappuccino and latte to sip while you pore over the Advocate to settle on whether it will be a movie or music for tonight's entertainment.

Lodging options are Hotel Northampton, the big red-brick building conveniently located downtown. A little to the west, in Florence, is The Knoll, a 1910 Tudor-style house situated on 17 acres of farm and woodland. Hostess Lee Lesko boasts guests from each of the 50 states and all continents except Antarctica. In nearby Amherst you'll find the Lord Jeffery Inn, where the 48 rooms include eight suites. Here you can choose informal dining at Elijah Boltwood's Tavern or fine dining at the Windowed Hearth.

To continue the tour into northeastern Connecticut, where more antiques, country roads, and good food await in the Quiet Corner, take Interstate 91 southbound.