Scenic Foliage Drives →
Maine Foliage Driving Tour
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If you're hungry, drive north into West Paris and stop in at Hungry Hollow Country Store (on the right, six miles from Market Square). Well worth the drive. Here homemade goodies abound: soups, sandwiches (lobster rolls always available through foliage season), baked beans, and Indian pudding are favorites. Eat in the six-seat store, at tables outside, or head up the road about one-half mile to the Snow Falls rest area on the left for a picnic.
Though you can't tell it from the road, the Oxford Hills hold an amazing diversity of minerals that have lured miners for generations. Perham's of West Paris is the largest attraction in the region. Nearly 100,000 people a year visit this world-class collection of gemstones. You'll see aquamarine, tourmaline, and amethyst among the many gemstones on display.
The heart of the Maine selection was collected by Stan Perham, who founded the business with his wife, Hazel, in 1919. Their daughter, Jane Perham, a well-respected gemologist and author, runs it now. Part museum, part gift shop (fine jewelry, children's toys, crafts, and books), Perham's is an interesting stop even if you're not a rock hound. But if you are, ask for a map of Perham's local quarries and try your luck, at no charge. When we visited, a little boy had just turned up a watermelon tourmaline -- but wouldn't disclose the quarry. (Bring your own hammer or pick, safety glasses, and bucket.)
One last great view before calling it a (full) day: Paris Hill. Backtrack on 26 to South Paris and look for the sign to Paris Hill, a road that climbs to a ridge top. In the distance to the west, enjoy views of the White Mountains. Up close there are beautiful 19th-century buildings and the old stone Oxford County Jail, which now houses the Hamlin Memorial Library and Museum.
Some options for tonight's lodging in Waterford follow. The Maine experience is writ large at the Center Lovell Inn, from the rustle of the white pines in the morning breeze to the call of the loon in the evening. In 1993, the former owners of the inn ran an essay contest, and out of 5,000 entries, Janice won the contest and the inn. With the help of Janice's mom, Harriett Sage, and Harriett's husband, Earle, Janice has received great reviews for her innkeeping and dinners. Some guest rooms are in the main house, and five are in the adjacent Harmon House. Dinner at the Center Lovell Inn (available to the public by reservation only) might include an appetizer of smoked pheasant ravioli in a wild mushroom cream sauce or baked brie in phyllo crust, and an entree of fresh salmon, muscovy duck, veal piccata, or filet mignon.
Another good choice is the Waterford Inne, a classic country inn. Waterford, and especially the National Historic District known as Waterford Flat, is a pretty 19th-century period piece that shouldn't be missed. The Waterford Inne, a farmhouse complete with red barn and pond, is tucked away on a country lane surrounded by fields and woods. The atmosphere is warm and comfortable with a hint of elegance. The best part of all is that you don't have to leave for dinner -- as long as you give them advance notice -- and you'll find the meal delicious.
If you're staying elsewhere, but want to visit Waterford, consider dining at the Lake House. The food is elegant, and white linen and fresh flowers grace the tables. Don't hurry this experience, because chefs and owners Allyson and Donald Johnson are going to prepare your gourmet meal to order. They have seven rooms in the nicely restored inn, which was built in 1797 as the first tavern in Waterford.


Reader Comments
Comment from on September 9, 2008
If you put this in either Google Maps or Yahoo Maps format it would be a big help.
Larry - Hobe Sound (one color) Florida
Comment from Wendy Tyler on August 17, 2010
You say you are in Bethel but you really never go near the town With Gould Academy, the Bethel Inn and common, the magnificent churches and awsome restauants you really missed out on what bethel is.
Comment from Jonathan Goldberg on August 17, 2010
Perham\'s of West Paris closed its doors after 90 some years this spring.
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